With more than 8 million visitors each year (in normal times) and just 90 minutes from the outskirts of Sydney, it’s easy to visit the Hunter Valley and get caught in the tourist traps. You name it, the Hunter has it – from a huge array of festivals and concerts to alpaca walking through the vineyards – it seems if there’s a tourism idea, someone has already thought of it. Like most busy tourist destinations, there are run-of-the-mill hotspots but if you look a little deeper there are some unique and remarkable experiences to be had.
The Hunter Valley is vast (covering 29,000 sq km) and includes Lake Macquarie, Newcastle, parts of the Barrington Tops and as far west as Muswellbrook, though for the majority of visitors a trip will include the wine regions of Pokolbin and Broke. With extensive mining and development, it’s a far cry from the untouched land of the Wonnarua people who inhabited the Upper Hunter for more than 30,000 years. Once the first grapevines were planted in the early 1800s, the region became synonymous with the vineyards planted in the shadow of the Broken Back Range.
I’ve been a local for nine years and as a former tour operator have sampled much of what’s on offer. As the Hunter has morphed into a weddings-based destination (with its accompanying bucks and hens parties) you may wish to avoid the heaving distilleries, sparkling wine, beer and cider venues full of partying millennials. Another must-avoid is Monday traffic on a long weekend – expect long delays on the M1 for your return to Sydney.
The best time to visit is spring. Not only have the winter-dormant vineyards sprung to green life, but the weather is also milder. Though a visit in winter may not be as pretty, a glass of local shiraz in front of an open fire is hard to beat. Not every venue is open mid-week so including a Saturday as part of your itinerary will give you the widest choice. Most cellar doors now charge a wine-tasting fee (from $5 to $25-plus per person) and due to Covid-restrictions it’s essential to book every component of your stay well in advance. Long gone are the days of driving the Hunter’s lovely country roads and pulling into wherever takes your fancy (though you might find more flexibility with this mid-week).
While you’re definitely spoilt for choice, you can’t visit the Hunter without sampling some of its local wines. Spending time with the winemakers themselves creates the most memorable experiences. Visit young gun Dan Binet at his Lovedale cellar door, Domaine de Binet. A tasting with Dan is fun and informative in an al fresco setting. You can also request a behind-the-scenes tour of the winery to gain some real insight into Binet’s process. A little further away from the main drag is Pierre’s Wines, Branxton. Peter Went is the owner/winemaker and his wines are some of the best in Australia – he provides a fascinating and very relaxed tasting.
A trip to Broke is well worth the extra 30-minute drive from Pokolbin for a must-have tasting with the engaging Dave Fromberg at Running Horse Wines. The cellar door is stunning yet unpretentious while his aged wines showcase the best characteristics of local grapes without costing a fortune.
As you would hope from a food bowl region, there’s plenty to eat, including fine diners – one of the best is the world-class Muse Restaurant, Pokolbin. Chef Troy Rhoades-Brown combines incredibly inventive flavours and uses many home-grown ingredients; the service is impeccable and the wine list extensive. Ask about their vegan degustation, too. To eat with the locals, visit the Royal Federal Hotel, Branxton. Good pub food with lots of Hunter wines, it’s busiest on a Sunday night.
For a relaxed breakfast or lunch, ask for a seat on the veranda at Kawul, Pokolbin. Using punchy, predominantly native ingredients, it’s easy to switch off from the hustle and bustle while overlooking the vineyard and dam.
For boutique self-contained accommodation set on 100 stunning acres, stay with Lucy and Jason at Block Eight Estate, Belford (from $350 per night). They have five beautifully appointed villas and prices includes a breakfast hamper and bottle of the estate’s wine.
For a hotel experience, stay at Spicers Guesthouse, Pokolbin (from $220 p/n). The rooms are tastefully decorated and the onsite restaurant, eRemo, serves excellent high-end Italian. Enjoy a drink in the bar watching kangaroos frolic on the lawn or sit around the lovely outdoor fire in winter. Larger groups have hundreds of holiday homes to choose from such as Kelman Cottage, Lower Belford (sleeps up to 10 from $510 p/n). If you’re looking for budget (BYO tent) bush accommodation not far from the vineyards that coincides with live music and a festival feel, check out upcoming dates for Dashville (two nights including music from $65).
To get a commanding view of the Valley, visit the sculpture gardens and walk up Len Evans Memorial Lookout at Constable Estate or for those less afraid of dizzying heights, get up early for a dawn balloon ride with Balloon Aloft.
